What Is the Difference Between Free Soloing and Soloing?

Free soloing and soloing are distinct climbing styles. In free soloing, you climb without any ropes or protective gear, relying solely on your skills and mental fortitude. It's extremely dangerous and practiced by only a handful of elite climbers. Soloing, on the other hand, is a broader term that can involve protective equipment like ropes and harnesses, even though you're climbing alone. While both require extensive experience and mental preparation, free soloing carries a much higher risk of fatal consequences. Soloing offers more safety options but still demands careful planning and self-reliance. Understanding these differences is crucial for any climber considering these challenging disciplines.

Defining Free Soloing

Free soloing is the most dangerous form of rock climbing. It involves ascending a rock face without any ropes, harnesses, or protective equipment. When you're free soloing, it's just you and the rock. There's no room for error, as a single mistake can be fatal.

In free soloing, you rely solely on your physical strength, mental fortitude, and climbing skills. You must navigate the route using only your hands and feet, finding natural holds in the rock to progress upward. It requires intense focus, unwavering concentration, and a deep understanding of your own abilities. Otzi the Iceman found at summit of Riffelhorn in Switzerland, dating back 5,300 years, suggests the origins of rock climbing can be traced back to gathering food and curiosity.

Free soloing is often confused with other forms of climbing, but it's distinct in its complete lack of safety gear. Unlike traditional climbing or sport climbing, you don't have the security of ropes or the option to rest on gear. You're constantly exposed to the risk of falling, which adds an extreme psychological element to the challenge.

This climbing style is practiced by only a small number of highly experienced climbers. It's not recommended for beginners or even advanced climbers due to its inherent dangers. Free soloing pushes the boundaries of human capability and risk-taking in the sport of rock climbing.

Understanding Soloing

Soloing, often confused with free soloing, is a broader term that encompasses various forms of climbing without a partner. When you're soloing, you're climbing alone, but you may still use protective gear. This can include ropes, harnesses, and other safety equipment that you set up yourself. Cave diving originated from the desire to explore deeper than any other human has explored before, and similarly, soloing offers a sense of independence and self-reliance that many climbers find appealing.

There are different types of soloing. Deep-water soloing involves climbing over water, relying on the water below as a safety net. Rope soloing uses a self-belay system, where you clip into pre-placed protection points as you ascend. Free soloing, as discussed earlier, is a subset of soloing where you climb without any protective gear.

Soloing offers a sense of independence and self-reliance that many climbers find appealing. It allows you to move at your own pace and make decisions without consulting a partner. However, it also comes with increased risks. You're responsible for all aspects of safety, and there's no one to check your systems or provide assistance if something goes wrong.

While soloing can be exhilarating, it requires extensive experience, careful planning, and a thorough understanding of your abilities and limitations.

Safety Considerations

Safety is paramount in both free soloing and soloing, but the considerations differ significantly. When soloing, you'll have a rope and gear for protection, which allows for a safety net in case of a fall. However, you must still be vigilant about proper gear placement and rope management.

Free soloing, on the other hand, leaves no room for error. You're climbing without any protective equipment, relying solely on your skills and mental fortitude. This requires an exceptional level of preparation and risk assessment.

For both disciplines, consider the following safety measures:

• Thoroughly assess the route and weather conditions before climbing
• Inform someone of your plans and expected return time
• Carry emergency communication devices
• Know your limits and be prepared to turn back if necessary

In soloing, you'll need to focus on proper gear placement and anchor points. Regularly check your equipment for wear and tear. For free soloing, mental preparation is crucial. Practice the route with protection first, and only attempt it when you're absolutely confident in your abilities. Remember, the consequences of a mistake in free soloing are often fatal, so approach it with extreme caution.

Gear and Equipment

Simplicity defines the gear requirements for free soloing and soloing, but there's a stark contrast between the two. In free soloing, you'll carry minimal equipment, often just your climbing shoes and a chalk bag. Your skill, strength, and mental fortitude are your primary tools.

For soloing, you'll need more gear. You'll use a rope, harness, and protection devices like cams or nuts. You'll also carry quickdraws, slings, and carabiners. This equipment allows you to set up self-belay systems as you climb.

Here's a comparison of gear typically used in free soloing versus soloing:

While free soloing relies solely on your abilities, soloing combines your skills with safety equipment. This difference in gear reflects the fundamental distinction between these climbing styles: one embraces absolute minimalism and risk, while the other balances self-reliance with a safety net.

Mental Preparation

Getting into the right headspace is crucial for both free soloing and soloing. You'll need to develop a strong mental game to tackle these challenging climbing styles. While the physical demands are significant, it's often the psychological aspects that make or break your ascent.

To prepare mentally for free soloing or soloing, focus on:

• Visualization: Mentally rehearse every move and potential obstacle
• Meditation: Practice mindfulness to stay present and focused
• Emotional control: Learn to manage fear and anxiety effectively
• Positive self-talk: Cultivate a confident and resilient mindset

You'll need to be completely honest with yourself about your abilities and limitations. Overconfidence can be deadly, but so can self-doubt. Strive for a balanced, realistic assessment of your skills and the climb ahead.

For free soloing, the mental preparation is even more intense. You must be prepared to face extreme exposure and potential death with unwavering focus. Soloing with a rope offers a psychological safety net, but you'll still need to overcome the challenges of climbing alone.

Historical Perspective

Throughout the history of climbing, soloing and free soloing have played significant roles in pushing the boundaries of the sport. You'll find that soloing has been practiced since the early days of mountaineering, with climbers tackling routes alone for various reasons, including personal challenge and expediency.

Free soloing, however, emerged as a distinct practice in the mid-20th century. You can trace its roots to climbers like John Bachar and Peter Croft, who popularized the technique in the 1970s and 1980s. These pioneers pushed the limits of what was possible without ropes or protection.

As you explore climbing history, you'll notice that soloing has always been more common and accepted than free soloing. Many famous ascents, like those in the Alps during the Golden Age of Alpinism, were often done solo but with some form of protection.

Free soloing, on the other hand, has remained a niche pursuit due to its extreme risk. You'll find that it's gained more attention in recent years, particularly with Alex Honnold's ascent of El Capitan in 2017, which brought the practice into the mainstream spotlight.

Notable Climbers and Achievements

In light of the distinction between soloing and free soloing, it's important to recognize the climbers who've made significant contributions to both disciplines. Alex Honnold stands out as the most famous free soloist, having completed the first free solo ascent of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. His achievement, captured in the documentary "Free Solo," brought widespread attention to the sport.

On the soloing front, you'll find climbers like Peter Croft and John Bachar, who've pushed the boundaries of both free soloing and rope soloing. Croft's solo ascents of the Astroman and Rostrum in Yosemite within a day are legendary, while Bachar's pioneering free solos in the 1970s set new standards for the discipline.

Notable achievements in both disciplines include:

• Dean Potter's free solo of Heaven in Yosemite
• Alain Robert's urban free solos of skyscrapers worldwide
• Catherine Destivelle's solo ascents in the Alps
• Hansjörg Auer's free solo of "The Fish" on Italy's Marmolada

These climbers have pushed the limits of what's possible in soloing and free soloing, inspiring generations of climbers and capturing the public's imagination with their daring feats.

Training and Skill Development

While these climbers' achievements are awe-inspiring, they're built on a foundation of rigorous training and skill development. To become proficient in soloing or free soloing, you'll need to invest significant time and effort into honing your climbing skills. Start by mastering the basics of rock climbing with ropes and protection. Focus on developing your technique, strength, and endurance through regular practice and structured training programs.

As you progress, gradually increase the difficulty of your climbs and work on your mental game. Visualization exercises and meditation can help you manage fear and stay focused during challenging ascents. It's crucial to practice route-reading skills and develop a keen sense of risk assessment. You'll need to learn how to identify potential hazards and make split-second decisions while on the wall.

For free soloing, you must be exceptionally comfortable with the routes you plan to climb. Repeatedly practice these routes with protection before attempting them without ropes. Always prioritize safety and know your limits. Remember, the goal is to push your boundaries responsibly, not to take unnecessary risks.